Welcome to my website in which I record my activities growing Organic Fruit. I am seriously limited for space, so I have to be smart about what I grow. The best way to maximise yield in a given space is to grow tall plants, but I wanted as much variety as possible, so my more recent additions have been dwarf fruit trees.........................................John Ashworth 27th July 2015.
Growing Dwarf Apples
Latest Update 4th October 2016.
Espaliered Dwarf Apple Tree
In November each year, the fruit on my apple trees are thinned to one apple on each fruiting spur. This increases the size and quality of the remaining apples at harvest time.
In late summer, the current year's growth is pruned back to 20mm above basal clusters. Where there is an apple, the new growth above it is removed. This focuses the plant's energy on growing its fruit, and later it encourages the plant to develop new fruiting spurs.
I don't prune apples in winter except when the initial structure is being fashioned or later changes to the structure are required.
I usually get 50 or 60 large healthy apples off my Granny Smith, but the tree has added a lot of new fruiting spurs this year, and I am hoping for a much bigger harvest.
I use horticultural gum to stop the female codling moth climbing up the tree's trunk in spring to mate and lay their eggs in the tree's foliage or on the apples. I use pest exclusion bags to keep the moth or larvae away from my apples if they manage to get past the glue.
Granny Smith apple trees are self fertile, but benefit from a suitable cross pollinating apple tree nearby. So I
have a grown a dwarf Gravenstein apple tree alongside it to encourage cross pollination.
debris from under the tree in winter. Dispose of the debris by burying
it 500mm under soil which is unlikely to be disturbed for some time, or in a thermal compost.
Apply masking tape to the trunk of the tree about 100mm above the ground and apply a ring of horticultural glue
around the tree on top of the masking tape. This stops the adult
female codling moth from crawling up the tree to mate and lay eggs in spring.
masking tape protects the bark of the tree from the glue, and makes it
easy to replace when it becomes covered in dust or dead
Thin the apples in
late spring when they have set. Check them at least twice a week looking for the first “stings,”
or tiny mounds of reddish-brown frass (excreta) about 2mm in diameter.
you scrape the frass away you can see the tiny entry hole where the
newly hatched larvae has just entered the fruit. These affected apples
need to be removed and placed in sealed black plastic bags. They should
then be cooked in the sun to kill off the larvae. Don't put the
in the compost without killing the larvae first.
If codling moth is a problem in your neighbourhood, cover the fruit with net
exclusion bags as soon as they develop, but remember to make the back
big enough for the growing fruit. The bags must have an effective
monthly foliar spray of aerated compost tea helps control powdery mildew, but if an infestation occurs, spray the affected foliage with an organic fungicide (like Eco-fungicide in Australia).
solution of 1 part cows milk to 9 parts water makes a reasonably
effective organic pesticide against powdery mildew. It needs
to be applied early before the fungi gets well established, and
frequently to keep it in check.
applications of aerated compost tea boost the natural defences of
apples by colonising the leaf surfaces with beneficial microbes.
They defend the plant against airborne pests and diseases.
proper soil preparation including regular applications of home made
compost boosts the community of beneficial
microbes, which defend the tree's roots against plant pathogens.
Exclusion netting with a 20% shade factor takes the edge off intense sunlight inhot weather 35-40 deg C. In extreme conditions of high wind and temperatures over 40 deg C, use 75% shadecloth.